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On potatoes

Here's a non-exhaustive list of things i like making with potatoes. But really, all you need is to mash some boiled potatoes, and add some salt and pepper, and you're good to go(1). The wiki list of potato dishes has more things that I haven't tried making yet. Also see this report on the humble potato from 2008, the international year of the potato.

  1. That said, the last time i had to make mashed potatoes for thanksgiving dinner, I ended up with 52 variations on the theme before i realized i'd also have to pack and carry it all. No regrets.

South asian / Indian variations

Chinese

French

Greek

Swedish

German

Korean

Italian

Spain

Swiss

Diner food

Breads

At home

Other (things i don't necessarily make at home or make often)

Dessert

Theory

  • What kind of potatoes to use for different dishes?

    • what's eating Dan video on the basics

    • sweet and starchy(1) - fiber content(2) - amylose (rigid, crystalline structures)(3) and amylopectin (softer, gel-like textures) - young and old(4) - peel earthiness(5) - the case for baby potatoes(6) - the case against baby potatoes(7) - temperature effects(8) - cold vs hot mashing(9) - overworking(10) - resistant starch created by cooling and reheating(11) - twice-frying, blanching and the high-temp finish(12) - maillard reactions in browning(13) - acid and discoloration(14) - when to salt, based on moisture content and intended texture(15) - rinsing(16) - sprouting and toxicity(17)

      1. On one end, waxy potatoes with their low starch and high moisture content hold their shape during cooking, making them perfect for potato salads and gratins. On the other end, starchy potatoes like Russets break down more readily, creating the fluffy interiors essential for perfect baked potatoes or french fries. The balance between these characteristics explains why medium-starch varieties like Yukon Golds are so versatile - they have enough starch to make creamy mashed potatoes but enough structural integrity to work in potato salads.
      2. Fiber content in potatoes, while lower than many vegetables, plays a crucial role in texture and nutrition. Most of a potato's fiber is found in its skin, which contains both soluble and insoluble fiber. This fiber content affects cooking by strengthening cell walls, which influences how the potato breaks down during cooking. The fiber also impacts moisture retention - higher fiber potatoes tend to hold their shape better during cooking because the fiber helps maintain cellular structure.
      3. Understanding potato science begins with their fundamental structure. Potatoes are complex carbohydrate packages, with their behavior in cooking largely determined by their starch content and cell structure. The two key types of starch molecules - amylose and amylopectin - play crucial roles in texture development. Amylose forms rigid, crystalline structures, while amylopectin creates softer, more gel-like textures. This explains why high-starch varieties like Russets become fluffy when baked, while waxy potatoes maintain their shape in soups and salads.
      4. Young and old potatoes behave remarkably differently in the kitchen. Young or "new" potatoes have thinner skins, higher moisture content, and lower starch levels, making them ideal for boiling and simple preparations where their delicate, sweet flavor can shine. As potatoes age, they convert some of their starch to sugar (a process that accelerates in cold storage), develop thicker skins, and become increasingly starchy. While this makes them less suited for boiling, it can make them better for frying and baking where their higher starch content contributes to better browning and crisping.
      5. The earthiness of potato peels comes from compounds called glycoalkaloids, particularly solanine and chaconine, which concentrate in the skin and just beneath it. These compounds contribute not only to flavor but also to the potato's natural pest resistance. The intensity of this earthiness varies by variety and growing conditions - red potatoes tend to have more pronounced earthy notes than white-skinned varieties. While these compounds are generally safe at normal levels, they can become problematic if the potato turns green or sprouts.
      6. Their high moisture-to-starch ratio and undeveloped skins make them perfect for simple preparations where their natural sweetness and creamy texture can shine. They require minimal prep, cook quickly and evenly due to their small size, and have a delicate flavor that works well with herbs and light seasonings. Their thin skins also mean no peeling is necessary, making them ideal for roasting whole or using in quick-cooking dishes.
      7. Their high moisture content and low starch makes them unsuitable for many classic potato preparations that require significant starch content, like fluffy mashed potatoes or crispy fries. They also tend to be more seasonal and less readily available year-round compared to mature potatoes.
      8. Temperature control fundamentally shapes potato cooking outcomes. When potatoes are heated, their starch granules begin absorbing water and swelling - a process called gelatinization that starts around 137°F (58°C). This process explains why proper temperature sequencing matters so much in techniques like double-frying, where an initial lower-temperature cook gelatinizes the starch, followed by a high-temperature finish that creates the crispy exterior. Interestingly, cooling cooked potatoes triggers retrogradation, where starches reorganize into resistant starch - a form that acts more like dietary fiber and can benefit gut health.
      9. Hot mashing when potatoes are freshly cooked takes advantage of already gelatinized starches, allowing for smoother incorporation of fats and liquids while the cell walls are most pliable. Cold mashing, on the other hand, requires more force to break down the retrograded (reorganized) starches, often leading to a chunkier, gluier, texture that enhances many asian/indian dishes where mashing is followed by frying.
      10. Overworking potatoes is a common pitfall that occurs when starch cells are excessively damaged. When potato cells are broken through aggressive mashing, whipping, or processing, they release more starch, which can interact with liquids to create a gluey, unpalatable texture. This is particularly problematic with high-starch varieties like Russets. The key is to handle potatoes gently and stop processing as soon as the desired consistency is reached.
      11. The creation of resistant starch through cooling and reheating represents an interesting intersection of cooking science and nutrition. When cooked potatoes are cooled, their starches undergo retrogradation - a reorganization process that makes them more resistant to digestion. This resistant starch acts more like dietary fiber, potentially offering health benefits like improved insulin sensitivity and gut health. The process is partially reversible with reheating, but some of the resistant starch remains.
      12. The creation of resistant starch through cooling and reheating represents an interesting intersection of cooking science and nutrition. When cooked potatoes are cooled, their starches undergo retrogradation - a reorganization process that makes them more resistant to digestion. This resistant starch acts more like dietary fiber, potentially offering health benefits like improved insulin sensitivity and gut health. The process is partially reversible with reheating, but some of the resistant starch remains.
      13. The Maillard reaction, which creates those desirable brown flavors, is particularly complex in potatoes due to their varying sugar content. Fresh potatoes have relatively low sugar levels, but cold storage triggers the conversion of starch to sugar - this is why potatoes stored in the refrigerator often brown too quickly when fried. Salt timing also significantly impacts the final texture; early salting draws out moisture and can lead to leathery skins in baked potatoes, while late salting preserves moisture but may result in less evenly seasoned dishes.
      14. Acid's role in preventing discoloration works by inhibiting polyphenol oxidase, the enzyme responsible for enzymatic browning. When potatoes are cut, this enzyme reacts with compounds in the potato to create dark pigments. A quick dip in acidulated water (water with lemon juice or vinegar) can prevent this discoloration by changing the pH to a level where the enzyme can't function effectively. This is particularly important when preparing potatoes ahead of time.
      15. Salt timing affects moisture content and texture through osmosis. Early salting draws moisture to the surface, which can be beneficial when trying to create crispy exteriors but potentially problematic when moisture retention is desired. For mashed potatoes, adding salt after cooking helps retain moisture during the cooking process, while salting the cooking water for boiled potatoes ensures even seasoning throughout. The timing of salt addition can also affect starch gelatinization rates.
      16. For high-starch varieties, rinsing removes excess surface starch that could lead to gumminess or uneven browning. This is particularly important for french fries, where excess surface starch can cause sticking and uneven cooking. However, for some dishes like potato pancakes, this surface starch is beneficial for binding, so rinsing is counterproductive.
      17. Age and storage conditions create an ever-evolving ingredient. As potatoes age, their starch content gradually converts to sugar, changing how they behave in recipes. This process accelerates in cold storage - a challenge for commercial kitchens. While this sugar development can be beneficial for caramelization in some dishes, it can also lead to uneven browning or unexpected textures. Additionally, potato age affects moisture content; newer potatoes typically have higher moisture and lower starch, making them better suited for boiling and steaming rather than frying or baking. Sprouting and toxicity concerns center around solanine development, which occurs when potatoes are exposed to light or begin sprouting. Solanine, a toxic compound that can cause illness, concentrates in sprouts, green areas, and just under the skin. While normal potatoes contain safe levels of solanine, levels can increase significantly in sprouted or green potatoes. The rule of thumb is to generously trim away any green areas and sprouts, and to discard potatoes that are significantly greened or heavily sprouted.

    • tl;dr - mealy potatoes like russets, idahos and some sweet potatoes have a high starch-to-water ratio, giving a fluffier texture when deep fried or baked, but fall apart when baked. make sure not to harass them too much during prep, since that can destroy the cell walls and lead to a dense congealed final dish. waxy potatoes (a lot of new potatoes, fingerlings) have a high water-to-starch ratio, and create a moist, more dense texture when boiled. yukon gold potatoes are a bit of an all-rounder, and are especially suited for mashing

    • Can we make ratatouille with potatoes? something like this?
    • You might notice that I have not included a lot of pairings on this list. In the indian context, this would be dishes like aloo gobi or aloo mutter, in soups and loaded potatoes this can be adding things like bacon or the classic broccoli-cheddar-potato soup, or even dishes like shepherd's pie. This is because reasons.
    • also see the potato atlas

Total: 9

p.s. Sweet potatoes are not potatoes. Please stop.

p.p.s. Chips/crisps are not on this list. This is not an oversight.